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To
get those views requires a long trek up into the mountains, for
there are no roads to take you there. We shortened the distance
a great deal, by taking a Russian cargo helicopter from Kathmandu,
at 4500 feet, to Lukla, at 9400 feet. Serious trekkers hike to Lukla
from the village of Jiri, a ten hour bus ride from Kathmandu. While
this helps the body acclimatize to the altitude and strengthen muscles,
this hike adds at least another week to the trip. So we skipped
ahead to Lukla, where we began our daily trekking routine. We adapted
to the trekking life quickly, eager to rid ourselves of the trappings
of civilization. The time of day and day of the week soon became
irrelevant. We rose, ate, walked, and slept according to the sun's
clock. Typically, we'd hear our spry cook Jor Bahadur (JB for short)
saying 'tea ready,' at first light, as he passed the hot mugs into
our tents. Hot wash water was left in a bowl just outside. After
a light breakfast, we would hike for about three hours, and then
leisurely enjoy a hot lunch while gazing at the surrounding peaks.
When we stopped mid-afternoon, after another three hours on the
trail, our camp was already set up, our down sleeping bags already
unfurled in our North Face dome tents. Afternoon tea, then dinner,
and an early bedtime usually rounded out the day.
The steep ups and downs, and the altitude,
took their toll the first few days - on our way through the villages
of Phadking, Namche Bazaar, and Thame, our legs felt like stone,
and we struggled to draw enough oxygen into our lungs. But by the
time we arrived in Khumjung, at 12,600 feet, our bodies were adjusting.
We occasionally suffered headaches (a typical symptom of mild altitude
sickness), but our legs felt stronger, and we grew more excited
the farther into the mountains we climbed.
Day 6: Every step we take we are witness
to a rich tapestry unfolding before us - spectacular mountain vistas,
the warm smiles of the villagers, and the Buddhist shrines along
the trail are all woven into the fabric of a hard, but spiritual
life that we all greatly admire.
Colorful prayer flags flutter along high ridges, the wind carrying
the words of the prayers off to be shared by all. Stupas (Buddhist
shrines) spring up frequently along the trail; out of respect we
walk around them in a clockwise direction, as the locals do. Mani,
or prayer stones, carved centuries ago, adorn the bases of the stupas
by the hundreds. Many of these stones repeat the mantra, 'Om mani
padme hum,' or 'Hail to the jewel of the lotus.'
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