Nepal
    Macherma is higher than I've ever been in my life. We spend two nights there to aid in the acclimatization process. We still have much higher to go. In addition to headaches that come and go, I notice a loss of appetite, another symptom of mild altitude sickness. I also have anxiety attacks at night, as my lungs struggle to take in more oxygen. These symptoms are cause for concern, but are not yet dangerous. I seem to be affected the most, although scientists have no idea why altitude affects some more than others, or why it can hit someone hard on one trip, but not on the next. One thing everyone agrees on is that you must consume a large amount of water each day to combat dehydration, which may play a large role in altitude sickness. Sona says we should drink four liters of water a day to replace the water we lose from perspiration and breathing the dry mountain air. At every meal, the staff provides us with ample supplies of boiled water that we use to fill our bottles. But while we all try diligently to comply with Sona's recommendation, the amount seems enormous, and I know I am not reaching that target.

Day 9: Our destination is the tiny summer village of Gokyo, at 15,700 feet. A steady climb, we push onwards and upwards following the Dudh Kosi, drawn by views of the glistening white Cho Oyu ahead of us, at 26,700 feet. We climb up and around the terminal moraine of the Lungsampa Glacier, a ten mile long river of ice, which flows down from the flanks of the towering Cho Oyu. Suddenly we come upon a series of breathtaking blue-green lakes, nestled between the lateral moraine of the glacier and Dragkya, a knife-edged ridge topping off at 20,000 feet. The deep blue color of the lakes is a shock to our senses, in this monochromatic alpine world of dark rock and white ice.
     The following morning we are scheduled to attempt the summit of Gokyo Peak, at 18,000 feet. Sitting just across the lake, it looks like a small hill, until we realize that the small specks we see are other trekkers, inching their way down the mountain following their own summit attempt. We go to bed anxious and excited. This is what we all had been dreaming about for a year. This is why we had been training hard for six months.
    I sleep fitfully, due to altitude and adrenaline. And it is cold. The down bags provided for us keep us warm, but each night requires at least one trip out of the tent due to the large volumes of water consumed. I stand outside in my long johns and hiking boots in the 20 degree cold. The night is calm. The combined light of a billion billion stars gently illuminates the landscape. I return to bed listening to the soothing sounds of water flowing by, and of chiming yak bells.