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At the park, we roll back the fabric roof on the
rover and stand up to get better views. The road is dirt, but better
than that outside the park, and we catch a nice breeze in our faces
as visions of this new unexplored territory fill our eyes. Grinning
like children, it isn't long before we spot some giraffe near the
road. Although we know we'll see many more, we shoot as if these
are the last on earth.
We climb up to the
rim of Ngurdoto Crater, or 'Little Ngorongoro,' and drive through
lush forest full of wild mango, African olive, and wild figs. Beard-like
lichens hang from outstretched limbs. The huge trees, fused with
virus vines, create a tangled skyscraper canopy far above our heads.
Black and white colubus monkeys play in the superstory. A huge troop
of baboons runs across the road as we approach. Babies ride on their
mothers' backs. They play, eat leaves, jump, and scream like it's
a cat fight. They hang in the giant trees with the endless plain
stretching out far below. From rim overlooks we see, a thousand
feet down in the crater, warthogs, water buffalo, and bushbuck.
The sun, dancing through cumulous clouds, moves slowly across the
crater floor. All around, white-cheeked hornbills with large casques
on top of their bills glide through the air with a phffooom sound,
and make raucous noises from their perches.
A blue monkey appears, then quickly disappears from view. Walking
to another overlook, we see fresh buffalo scat. We're told not to
stray too far from the guide. The buffalo is said to be the most
dangerous of the 'big five.' Related to bison, they can weigh up
to 2000 lbs., yet they can run up to 35 mph, far faster than humans.
We also see elephant scat in this area. Elephants apparently don't
digest their food very well, so they have to spend up to sixteen
hours a day eating to take in the 330 lbs of vegetation that they
need to sustain themselves. Their size and eating habits have presented
a problem in some National Parks, where the encroachment of civilization
and the inability of elephants to migrate have caused them to destroy
their own habitat. Some parks are even toying with the idea of culling
herds to counter this problem. It is not a problem in Arusha Park,
however. Here, there are only 70 elephants left.
We continue driving around the rim, up to
the highest point at 7000 feet. There's a great view across the
two mile wide crater. Turning around, we see the base of Kilimanjaro,
but most of it is hidden by clouds, even in this, the dry season.
We drive down to a lunch spot overlooking
the alkaline Momello Lakes. More wart hogs along the way, running
away hysterically, with their little tails stuck straight up in
the air. A waterbuck is seen through the trees - they depend on
cover to escape predators. Dainty dik diks, about 10 lbs, with large
doe eyes, run across the road. Amazingly, these antelope get water
solely from the foliage they eat. They are so well adapted to their
harsh environment that they can tolerate temperatures of 104 degrees
for eight hours before they even begin to pant. As with the other
antelopes, they can allow their body temperatures to rise 10 degrees
during the heat of the day, and dissipate it later.
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