Antarctica
After unpacking, there was a cocktail reception in the dining room, and then it was time to explore the ship. There was a small library, a weight room, a sauna and an outdoor swimming pool. One of the nicest treats was having unlimited, 24-hour access to the bridge. It was odd to see navigation charts in Russian!
    After a short briefing, we all went on deck to watch as we departed Ushuaia and headed down the Beagle Channel, named after Charles Darwin's ship. Then it was time for dinner. Dining was casual - no formal dress and no assigned seating. This added to the camaraderie and gave us a chance to get to know everyone during the trip. Each night we were given a choice of two entrees, usually one fish and one meat dish. They were hard choices, because everything I ate was excellent.
    We woke the next morning in the Drake Passage, some of the most treacherous waters in the world. Sailors have reported waves here of 100 feet high, and hurricane-force winds are common. Fortunately for those prone to sea-sickness, the seas were calm, although some of us couldn't help but feel a little cheated at not being tossed around. It would take two days at cruising speed to cross the 600 miles of open water, but even these days were full of activity. There were educational seminars given by our onboard naturalists about the geology and history of Antarctica and the biology of the penguins and whales we would see; there was a ship's tour, which included the state-of-the-art engine control room and scientific research facilities; there were bird watches from the aft deck, where we saw albatross, petrels and cape pigeons swoop and dart behind the ship in search of food churned up in our wake.
    There were also safety briefings, including one on how we would conduct our landings in the Zodiacs (inflatable boats designed by Jacques Cousteau), and a discussion of the Antarctic Traveler's Code, which instructs visitors on minimizing their impact on the animals and the landscape. I was happy to see that safety and environmental concern were taken seriously.
    At the end of our first evening in the Drake, some new friends and I went up to the bridge. It was quiet and dark, with only the glow from the radar and navigation equipment providing light. My friend Chris spoke Russian, and soon we were all trying to converse with Valeri, a charming 32-year-old sailor with a twinkle in his eye and a gold tooth visible through his mischievous smile. He asked if we would like to see his quarters, and naturally we agreed. Upon opening his door, Valeri introduced us to Leonid, his cabin mate. Leonid was strong, stocky and slightly balding, and he had some gold teeth as well. He said he used to be a MIG-23 pilot, and his sense of adventure and romance brought him on board the ship.