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Bryce also supports 400
species of plants, and is visited by 160 species of birds every
year, including eagles, hawks, falcons, and owls. The park is indeed
an extremely diverse ecosystem, and one is grateful that President
Warren G. Harding had the foresight to protect the area back in
1928.
Viewing this rich landscape is easiest
along the Rim Trail at the top of the canyon, but to fully appreciate
the hoodoos you need to walk down into the formations themselves.
Trails into the amphitheater range from relatively easy 1.5 mile
round-trip walks to more strenuous hikes of up to eight miles, which
may involve ascents and descents of 900 feet. (Given that the park
lies at about 8,000 feet above sea level, even short hikes can be
tiring if you're not accustomed to the altitude.) Backpacking is
also possible along the Under the Rim Trail, which runs for 22 miles
between Bryce Point and Rainbow Point.
Two of the best hikes are also the
shortest, the Queen's Garden Trail and the Navajo Loop Trail. Each
leads in and among the formations, and sometimes through them via
tunnels cut through the rock. Individually, these trails are about
1.5 miles round-trip, and there are descents of 320 feet (for Queen's
Garden) and 520 feet (for the Navajo Loop) into the canyon. These
trails can be combined or taken individually. I chose to hike the
Navajo Loop in the early morning and the Queen's Garden in the afternoon,
since those times of day provide the best lighting conditions for
photography.
Descending into the canyon was like entering
another world. At times I felt like I was in a fairyland, staring
up at palaces, castles and miniature cities with windowed walls
and cathedral spires. Other times, it seemed like I was walking
among the pieces of a giant chess game, the figures staring back
at me from heights of up to 200 feet. The palette of color around
me was intense and pure, unaffected by smog or haze. Iron and manganese
in the rock has oxidized into incredible hues of red, pink, orange,
yellow, and purple. The Douglas fir trees added life to the landscape,
standing in stark contrast to the crumbling monoliths. Junipers
and gnarled pinyon pines struggled to hold on to the eroding soil.
Rock crevasses, glowing red from reflecting light, arced toward
pinnacles capped with dazzling white limestone, all set against
a cobalt blue sky. It was a surrealistic, other-worldly landscape.
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