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As soon as the aircraft took off, we were stunned with spectacular
views. We headed up over the Nizina River, and the mountains opened
up in front of us. We passed over more glaciers than I can remember,
staring into deep blue crevasses where the icefalls tumbled down
from the peaks.
Dirty stripes in the glaciers marked medial moraines, where two
glaciers merged together. Dark green forest and rocky crags covered
the lower slopes, and we saw a mountain goat scampering along with
incredible agility. We circled up to about 8000 feet, giving us
clear views of Regal Mountain (13845 feet) and Mt. Blackburn (16390
feet), and more blinding ice and snow than I could imagine. The
ride was turbulent at times, but I tried not to think about worst
case scenarios and instead concentrated on taking pictures in this
rugged "top of the world" landscape. After an hour we landed, although
I still felt like I was up in the air.
After all our excitement, we decided to
have a cold beer in the Bear's Den Saloon, and replay in our heads
the incredible sights that we had just witnessed. The bar had a
real frontier flavor, complete with pool table, and old photos and
mining implements adorning the walls. It wasn't that they tried
to make it look old - it was old. As with the other buildings in
town, each piece of "decoration" was essentially a museum piece.
And the museum was where we were headed
next. It was housed in the original CN & NR Railroad Depot, and
contained a huge assortment of historical photographs, documenting
the building of the railroad and the lives of the miners. Old newspaper
clippings, mining tools, and artifacts from daily life rounded out
this wonderful collection. We talked briefly to the museum caretaker,
an old gentleman who also ran the local art gallery. When we told
him of our aerial adventure he said, "you saw places you couldn't
get to in two months, even if you were fully prepared and provisioned."
We felt very lucky to have seen such rare views.
The next day we left the campground on the
river, crossed back over to McCarthy, and took a shuttle van up
the road five miles to the mining town of Kennicott. It was here
that a town of 600 grew from nothing, perched between the glacier
and the mountains, when the richest copper ore in the world was
discovered here back in the early 1900s. While it was difficult
to gain access to this remote wilderness, some of the veins of copper
ore ran as high as 70 % copper (compared to an average of 2% copper
found in the lower 48 states). These rich veins made the operation
extremely profitable for the Kennecott Copper Corporation. (Yes,
the corporation is spelled differently than the glacier and the
town. The mine was supposed to be spelled like the glacier, which
was named after Alaskan explorer Robert Kennicott, but the company
name was misspelled.)
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