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We finally made it down onto the Root Glacier
itself. We didn't venture far, as there were crevasses to contend
with. But I had been on glaciers before and knew where to draw the
line on exploring.
It was impressive to be surrounded by such an
enormous sea of ice, the giant waves flowing imperceptibly beneath
our feet.
We had been lucky so far with gorgeous summer
weather, but the next day we awoke to rain. It wasn't hard or steady,
but the clouds had obscured most of the mountains. Unsure what to
do but unwilling to be confined to the tent, we hiked back into
Kennicott. Once there we decided to take a ride up to Bonanza Ridge,
and the Bonanza Mine. Randy, a large, chain-smoking, jack-of-all-trades,
loaded us into his old Chevy Suburban and headed up the ridge along
another old wagon trail. It was a kidney-punishing, bone-jarring
carnival ride up 3000 feet in three miles. We were bouncing off
the roof as we hit rocks and ruts, and trees continually raked both
sides of the truck. Randy didn't seem to notice the punishment his
truck was taking, and he casually pointed out some of the mining
equipment along the way. In a clearing below
the top of the ridge, Randy let us out, a little dazed but having
thoroughly enjoyed the ride. We continued on foot, hiking up another
1000 feet along a small trail towards the Bonanza Mine. We passed
ghostly relics of earlier days, as a heavy mist fell and clouds
swooped up the ridge, engulfing us. When we reached the mine, we
were again impressed that the mine was still standing (although
tenuously), given its precarious position just below the knife-edge
of the ridge. Unfortunately, a cold hard rain began to fall, and
we were forced to retreat the 4000 feet back down to the glacier
and our camp.
We hiked out to McCarthy the next day, a
bit waterlogged and a bit tired, but none the worse for wear. What
capped off our adventure were stops at the "Tailor-Made Pizza" parlor
and the Bear's Den Saloon on our way out of town. It was a place
we had grown very fond of - an uncrowded, unhurried frontier town
where everyone was friendly. The people of McCarthy stand at the
brink of major changes, of "civilization" encompassing them. As
with many native cultures, the transition may be difficult. (McCarthy
only received phone service in 1995, and some of the "bush babies,"
as they call themselves, are still adjusting.)
In 1979, Wrangell-St. Elias, together with
adjoining Kluane National Park in Canada, was named a World Heritage
Site. All such sites are "considered to be of such exceptional interest
and such universal value that their protection is the responsibility
of all mankind." The area is also exceptional in the successful
juxtaposition of public, private, and native land. It would be an
irrevocable loss to all if rampant commercialism destroyed the character
of the land or of the people.
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